Showing posts with label Thanksgiving. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thanksgiving. Show all posts

14 November 2012

Definitive cornbread dressing




In the spirit of Thanksgiving and sharing, I am happy to present the absolute, the standard against which all others are to be judged, the definitive cornbread dressing recipe, updated by cornbread guru Bill Page. "Dressing guru" sounded a bit strange. This updates an earlier truncated version. Take some time to enjoy making this. Festina lente, y'all. 

Please note: it's dressing, not stuffing. 

Real Southern Cornbread Dressing

Making cornbread dressing is an art, not an exact science. 

This recipe makes enough dressing for a crowd of 30 or more. 

Experiment with the recipe to match what your family likes. 

Remember, cornbread dressing is a special type of bread pudding ... you need plenty of liquid to start with.

Do not cook the dressing inside or with the turkey. You run the risk of undercooking one item or overcooking the other. Just cook the dressing in its own pan.

Oil the roasting pan. I use PAM, but you can use butter or Wesson oil.

Most recipes call for equal amounts of white bread and corn bread. 

I use a little more cornbread, and a little less white bread, rather than a 50-50 mix, roughly 2/3 corn bread and 1/3 white bread.

For the white bread, use rolls or biscuits, not plain white bread. 

Buy the cheap kind of canned biscuits--those without butter or other flavoring. 

You can also substitute crushed unsalted saltine crackers for some of the white bread. 

Rip the bread into pieces about the size of the end of your thumb--it's therapeutic. 

I usually cook about 40 biscuits and 48 dinner rolls. This makes enough for me to eat a few while I am cooking. 

Cook this bread several days early, rip it up, freeze it, and then pull it out to thaw the night before the day you will cook the dressing. 

I make four 8.5 x 11 pans of yellow cornbread (each pan requires 3 packages of instant cornbread--so, you need to buy 12 packages total of cornbread mix). The corn bread should be crumbled into lumps. 

You can make the cornbread from scratch, but it will not improve the flavor. I cook the cornbread in advance, crumble it, freeze it, and put it out to thaw the night before. 

If you live in a dry climate, you can let the bread and cornbread sit out and go slightly stale (the mixture soaks up more liquid that way). Otherwise, you can lightly toast the bread, if you want. But, you can also use untoasted bread if you prefer. 

You will have bread left over after you assemble the dressing. This is okay --the exact amount you will need will vary depending on how dry it is and how much liquid it absorbs. Bread is cheap, and it is okay to throw some away (or feed the birds) -- but you don’t want to be left short when making dressing, trying to get more at the last minute.

I use two bags of frozen onions and 3 or 3.5 cups of chopped celery. 

Most recipes call for a lot more celery, but unless your crowd is a big fan of celery, err on the side of adding too little.

You can also keep some onion powder on hand, in case you decide you need more onion flavor at the last minute, after you have mixed up the raw dressing.

Sauté the onions and celery before you mix everything together. As my mother and my Aunt Madge both used to say, no one wants to bite down on a piece of raw celery. I do this the day before, when it is less hectic. 

I sauté the celery first in a little Wesson oil. While that is cooking, I thaw the onions in the microwave. 

Then I sauté the onions (separate from the celery), again using Wesson oil. You can use other vegetable oils, but avoid any with a strong flavor. 

After those vegetables are cooked, I mix in some of the butter (or margarine) and sage, and let those flavors meld together in the refrigerator overnight. I am not sure it makes a lot of difference, except that it is less work when I am actually putting the mixture together right before baking.

I add two or three small tubs of margarine to the dressing. You can use butter, if you prefer. This total includes the butter you already added to the onion / celery mix.

I can't tell much difference between using butter or margarine. The butter has a slightly better flavor, but it also makes the dressing greasier. Soften the butter/ margarine before you add it to the celery and onions – this makes mixing the ingredients much easier.

When its time to add the celery / onion mixture to the dressing, soften it first in the microwave. This makes it much easier to mix the ingredients.

A lot of recipes saw to use poultry seasoning. Well, I use sage, and only about half as much as most recipes suggest. I usually add two or three teaspoons of sage – sometimes just a bit more. This depends on how well your crew likes sage. 

The most important thing is, buy a new bottle of sage. Old sage doesn't have much flavor (which is a good thing, according to some people). 

Tossing out the old bottle of sage is a Thanksgiving tradition at my house.

Most recipes say add salt and pepper to taste. 

I *never* use pepper.

Salt may or may not be needed, depending on how salty your broth is.

I add 4 to 6 eggs slightly beaten. You really do not have to beat the eggs, but you will probably break the yokes when you crack the eggs, and beating them slightly does not add much labor to the overall process.

If you're concerned about salmonella, you can add the egg last – because all great cooks (ahem) taste the dressing as they go along. 

I've never heard of anyone getting sick from the eggs in raw dressing, and I don't worry about it (you can quote me on your tombstone).

But I would not feed raw dressing to a young child or to a person with health problems … why tempt fate?

You need to add chicken broth or bouillon. I use a mixture of canned broth and powdered bouillon. You can make your own broth but I can't tell much difference, except it's a lot more work to cook the broth first. However, the broth does smell wonderful when it’s simmering. And if you carve the turkey the night before, cooking the bones makes you feel really virtuous. As for me, I favor sloth. 

I generally use two 2.25 ounce jars of Weylen’s Chicken bouillon granules (mixed in 3 or 4 cups of water), plus 2 to 4 cans of low sodium chicken broth. You can buy the more expensive organic chicken broth, but I can’t tell any difference.

If you are worried about the dressing having too strong a chicken flavor, add less of the powdered bouillon granules to start with. You can always add more later, but you can’t take it out once it is in the dressing.

I add enough milk to make the mixture "soupy". I usually use four small cans of canned milk, which makes for a richer flavor. If you use regular milk, you may want to increase the amount of butter somewhat. 

If you need more liquid, you can add a little water, or plain milk. 

The desired texture of the raw dressing is hard to describe – it should be a bit thicker than lumpy oatmeal, and you should have a little free liquid around the edge of the pan. Remember, you want the raw dressing to be “goopy” – this is a bread pudding you are making. 

The raw dressing should taste about like the final product, after it has been cooked.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 

It usually takes me 20 to 30 minutes to assemble the raw dressing – just about long enough for the oven to get hot.

Bake in a covered container. 

If you want, you can uncover the dressing for the last 10 to 15 minutes, either to brown the top of the dressing, or if you get too much liquid in the mix this will dry it out.

The cooking time depends partly on how much liquid you used. It typically takes between 1 ¼ and 1 ½ hours – sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less. 

The dressing will stay hot for a long time, especially if you wrap the pan in clean towels.

25 November 2010

Thanksgiving recipe: Texas cream pie


We were braced for a major storm the past two days, but it missed us. Thanksgiving is snow-covered under a blazing blue sky. From a low of -8*F, we have come up to 22*F. It is a glorious day to be indoors looking out. Hot tea and a warm and busy kitchen make it even better.

Thanksgiving dinner starts as soon as Gene finishes the glazed carrots, made with some truly incredible carrots from a friend's garden. Everything else is ready to go--turkey, whole-berry cranberry relish, sage-cornbread dressing, other assorted sides, and a trio of pies. We went with sweet potato, buttermilk and mincemeat pies, and everything smells wonderful up here.

In a hectic year and a tough economy, we are thankful for our supportive network of friends and family, and are grateful for everyone who is healthy, happy and safe. We cherish both the long-term friends who have put up with us for years, and the people we have met in the past three years or so up here who have become good friends as well. I am personally thankful for having the opportunity to live in this wild, beautiful and deep-rooted part of the world, and to be in a position to learn and document, and maybe even to help protect, its history.

Today's recipe is the one that my grandmother cherished most deeply and protected most fiercely. She was reluctant to give it out at all, even in her last years. As you know, I'm not sure that recipes can or should be as secret as all that; nevertheless, I had some pangs about publishing this one. Consider it a gift, our thanks for your being here.

There are two very slightly different versions of this. Texas Cream Pie is nothing like Boston Cream Pie, which is a cake, anyway. It is a gelatin-enhanced vanilla-perfumed custard with a slightly extravagant whipped topping and chocolate shavings as the final garnish.





Texas cream pie

The all-time winner for a perfect dessert. This was taken from a commercial recipe and it was years before Vada felt that she could share it. Her note reads “This is a prize winning $1,000 recipe. Guard it carefully.”

For 2 pies have ready 2 baked pie shells.

Sift together

½ cup sugar
1 heaping T flour

Add 2 cups milk. Cook slightly in double boiler. Add ¼ of this mixture to 5 egg yolks, slightly beaten. Then add yolk mixture to rest of custard. Return to double boiler and cook 3 minutes. Soften 1½ envelopes gelatin in ¼ cup cold water. When custard has cooked 3 minutes, remove from heat and stir in gelatin and 2 tsp vanilla. Cool thoroughly. Beat 4 egg whites with ¼ tsp cream of tartar and add ½ cup sugar. Fold in custard mix gently and put in baked pie shells. Set in refrigerator. Whip ½ cup cream and add 2 T powdered sugar. Spread on top of pie and decorate with grated semi-sweet chocolate over top.

There are two versions of this recipe: the older one adds 1 extra egg, ½ stick of real butter, and an extra ½ envelope of gelatin. This is the version Vada and Gladys came up with and preferred.
--Vada Brooks Johnson, Gladys Brooks Strickland

It's worth the trouble, is all I can say. Happy Thanksgiving. Squeeze your loved ones and don't be afraid to have seconds of anything.

22 November 2010

Family recipe Monday: a Simple Gifts Thanksgiving


This is the dream-team Thanksgiving dinner from the Simple Gifts project. Collectively, these recipes span over a hundred years and a goodly part of the country. I wish I could bring all these cooks together--some of them never even met each other. Family cooking keeps us together across the generations--be sure to give your loved ones an extra hug from us.

Start out with these perfect nibbles.

The Shelton-Sommers family. Ralph is on the left.
I may now be disowned for publishing this, but I think it is a great picture.

Ralph’s East Texas parched pecans
Pecans
Worcestershire sauce
Butter

Melt butter in skillet. Add Worcestershire sauce and pecans. Cook on medium heat, stirring constantly, until golden. Best paired with a single-malt Scotch.
--Ralph Shelton

Use the next two recipes to put together a world-class version of Texas Cornbread Dressing.

Corn kernel cornbread
1 cup flour
1 cup cornmeal
4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
¼ cup sugar
2 eggs, well beaten
1 cup milk
3 T melted margarine
1 cup yellow cream-style corn

Preheat oven to 450* F. Brush 9” square baking pan or skillet with melted shortening. Combine dry ingredients in mixing bowl, stirring to blend well. In a separate bowl, combine eggs, milk, margarine and corn. Add all at once to dry ingredients, mixing quickly and thoroughly. Pour batter into pan and bake about 30 minutes, or until bread tests done. Can also be baked as sticks or muffins. Serve hot.

Dipping biscuits

Whisk in bowl to blend:

2 ½ cups whole wheat flour
½ cup unbleached flour
2 ½ tsp baking powder
¾ tsp salt
¾ tsp onion powder
½ tsp ground thyme
½ tsp ground sage (or substitute ¾ tsp Bell’s seasoning)

Add ½ stick butter cut in ½” cubes; blend in with pastry blender until coarse meal consistency. Blend in 1 cup buttermilk, 1 large egg, mix until moist. Turn onto floured surface, knead briefly until dough comes together. Gather into ball, roll out to ¾“, cut into rounds or squares. Bake in 400o preheated oven 20-22 minutes, or until biscuit tester* comes out clean! Dip in gravy and enjoy.
--Pat Monaco

*This is an in-joke. Our friend Pat actually found a snooty gourmet magazine recipe for biscuits that required the use of a biscuit tester to determine doneness. If you can’t tell when biscuits are done, a tester will not help you much. These are great crumbled into a cornbread-sage dressing.

For a soup course, try this Pennsylvania classic.

Shaffner-Hess wedding reception, 1954.

Potato soup

Sauté gently in 2 T butter:

1 T grated carrot
1 T scraped onions

Stir in:

1 tsp salt
¼ tsp celery salt
1/8 tsp pepper
2 cups hot milk
1 cup mashed or boiled potatoes, put through a coarse sieve

Cook 20 minutes
--Dolly Shaffner Hess

For a variation on the standard cranberry jelly, try this.



Cranberry salad

1 lb. cranberries
1 whole apple

Grind in food chopper. Cover with 1 cup sugar. Add:

1 small can crushed pineapple
Pinch salt
1/2 cup nuts

Mix into 2 pkg. Jell-O (cherry or raspberry) in 3 cups water. Chill.
--Vada Brooks Johnson, Shirley Johnson Shelton

And here is a quartet of great side dishes:



Vada’s marinated carrots

2 lb. carrots, cut in 1” pieces

Cook until tender; drain and set aside. Bring to boil:

1 cup sugar
1 8-oz. can tomato sauce
1/3 cup oil
½ cup vinegar

When boiling, add 1 onion (sliced) and 1 green pepper (sliced). Bring back to good hard boil and pour over carrots.
--Vada Brooks Johnson



Rice-broccoli casserole

1 package chopped broccoli
½ cup chopped onion
½ cup chopped celery
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can cream of chicken soup
1 small jar Cheddar cheese spread
1 cup cooked rice

Cook broccoli according to package directions. Sauté onion and celery in small amount of oil. Mix with broccoli. Add soups and cheese spread. Line a casserole dish with rice. Pour broccoli mixture over rice and bake at 375* F for 10 minutes.
--Vada Brooks Johnson

Pennsylvania red cabbage

2 tbsp bacon drippings heated in skillet (oil may be substituted)

Stir into drippings or oil:

¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup cider vinegar
½ tsp caraway seed
¼ cup water
1 ¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper

Stir in to coat:

4 cups shredded red cabbage
2 cups cubed unpeeled red apple

Cover and cook on low heat about 15 min until cooked but still crisp. Stir occasionally.
--Dolly Shaffner Hess

Perfect baked sweet potatoes

4 medium to large sweet potatoes
Safflower oil

Preheat oven to 400* F. Wash and scrub potatoes. Dry thoroughly. Coat potatoes lightly with oil. Prick surface with fork. Bake until tender (40-60 minutes, depending on size).


The best rolls of all time for the dinner are Bran Rolls and Potato Rolls. I'd serve these with Honey Jelly.

Honey jelly

3 cups honey
1 cup water
½ bottle liquid fruit pectin (Certo)

Measure honey and water into large saucepan and mix well. Place over high heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. At once stir in pectin. Then bring to a full rolling boil and boil hard 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, skim off foam with metal spoon, and pour quickly into glasses. Cover jelly at once with 1/8” hot paraffin wax. This will make five glasses.

Here are a couple of options for the main course, in addition to the Shrimp Creole we love for holidays. Because we just do, that's why.

Basic roast turkey

18 to 22-lb. turkey
2 oranges or 4 lemons, halved
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
Salt, pepper, paprika
Cheesecloth
4 T corn oil

Clean turkey with damp paper towels. Dry well inside and out. Squeeze orange or lemon juice over the inside and outside of cavity. Fill neck cavity with one stuffing and body cavity with another, if desired. Don’t pack too tightly. Close cavities by sewing or skewering. Rub 1½ sticks of butter over outside of turkey. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and paprika. Drape cheesecloth over top of turkey. Place breast side up on rack in roasting pan. Bake 4½ to 5 ½ hours at 325* F or until turkey tests done. Baste every 30 minutes with corn oil which has been mixed with remaining butter (melted). Baste without lifting cheesecloth, but check periodically to make sure it is not stuck to skin. If it is, gently lift and baste under cheesecloth. If breast gets too dark, tent with a piece of foil.



The Brooks family. Vada is the taller of the two little girls.

For the poultry-averse:

Brisket

6 lb. brisket
3 T garlic salt
3 T onion salt
3 T celery salt
½ bottle dark smoke (liquid smoke), 3-oz bottle

Wrap in foil and marinate overnight. Cook 6 hours at 275* F.
--Vada Brooks Johnson

Finally, if you are still able to move, we recommend a nice selection of pies for dessert. You can never have too many of these. Some already-printed classics include Pumpkin-Chiffon Pie, Buttermilk Pie, Pecan Pie and Caramel Pie. Here are a few other dessert options:

Sour cream dried cherry pie

2 cups sour cream
3 egg yolks
½ cup brown sugar
3 T flour
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp cinnamon
1 ½--2 cups dried sour cherries
½ cup water

Put the cherries in a small saucepan with the water and plump them over low heat about 5 minutes. Cool and drain. Combine the flour and sugar. Add the beaten egg yolks, sour cream, vanilla and cinnamon. Cook the custard in a double boiler until it just starts to thicken, stirring continuously. Mix in the cherries and divide between two pre-baked piecrusts. Bake at 350* until just golden, 10-12 minutes.
--Pat Monaco and Sally Shelton





Chocolate chip cheesecake

1 ½ cup finely crushed Oreo cookies
¼ cup oleo or butter, melted
3 8-oz packages cream cheese, softened
1 14-oz can Eagle Brand condensed milk (not evaporated)
3 eggs
2 tsp vanilla
1 cup mini-chocolate chips
1 tsp flour

Preheat oven to 300* F (important). Combine crumbs and oleo; pat firmly on bottom of 9” springform pan. In a large bowl, beat cream cheese until fluffy. Add Eagle Brand milk and beat well. Add eggs and vanilla; mix well. In a small bowl, toss together ½ cup chocolate chips, 1 tsp flour to coat. Stir into cheese mixture. Pour into pan. Sprinkle ½ cup chocolate chips on top. Bake 1 hour or until cake springs back when lightly touched. Cool to room temperature. Chill and remove side of pan. Serves 10-12.
--Marcie Nelson

I'll post another pie recipe on Thanksgiving Day. Happy Monday.

17 November 2010

Thanksgiving thoughts: independence

Gene at Devils Tower, Wyoming

Along with several other people I know, I am taking some time in this week or so leading up to Thanksgiving to consider our gifts and graces. This year, I need to stop and reflect on what truly makes our lives meaningful and whole. It's not about the trimmings and trappings and other superficial embellishments; this year, it's about the things that truly define us.

Today's celebration is about independence, at a personal level. I am grateful for everything that keeps us all healthy and independent to the greatest degree possible. This is not an abstract concept in our home. We live with the daily awareness that independence is a treasure.



Gene birding in South Dakota

Gene and I don't dwell a lot on the MS that has limited his mobility. This is mainly due to his determination not to be limited any more than necessary. His own stubborn character provides the drive; several devices and medications facilitate it. Even a generation ago, he might have been forced to stay at home, to curtail his biological research and field work, and to have assistance in his activities at an early age.


There he goes....

MS is one of the auto-immune disorders about which so very little is really known. Gene does not dwell on why or how this has happened, and has remarkably little self-pity. Instead, one power chair and one modified van later, he is on the go, trekking as far off-road as he possibly can. He is a dedicated birder and takes the van and the chair everywhere he can possibly reach. He is tireless in zipping around town.

When we had to have the power chair repaired last year, the wheelchair store employees stared at Gene in shock as they removed great hunks of grass, brush and rocks from the undercarriage. I've seen lawnmower bags with less debris. The wheelchair guys are used to pristine chairs that stay on the pavement, not cross-country wonders that come in with half the prairie in the treads. Here's the interesting thing, though: they were beaming. Ecstatic. Incredibly happy that he was able to be so independent and active, delighted that the chair is more likely to be worn out than to rust out.



The investment in independence

As I count up our blessings this year, not just for us, but for all our friends and family, I'm placing personal independence high on the list. Our society has found, and is finding, so many ways to keep people healthy, active and independent, more than ever before. And independence is one of those quiet treasures that we often don't cherish enough until it is threatened or gone. It doesn't mean that we don't ask for or give help (we do); it means that we have a wide range of options and choices available to us. Options that an MS patient in the past might never have had.

Independence in our daily lives makes it possible for us to construct the networks we need and want without feeling trapped or isolated. I am thankful that we live in a time when people with needs are not shunted aside or stiflingly isolated as an automatic response. We have found that people are overwhelmingly likely to help when help is needed--the tricky part is being able to ask for it, and to accept it as generously as we give it. Maybe, at the end of the day, it's all about interdependence after all.

We don't know what the future holds, but, then, we never do. It's a good year for us this year on the independence front, and we'll take it. Giving help and asking for it are equally important. Remember that we all need to do both.